Lucca, Italy
Overview
Lucca is one of Tuscany’s most rewarding cities and one of the least-hyped. Its defining feature is the intact 16th-century Renaissance city wall — a 4.2km circuit of broad, tree-lined ramparts wide enough to walk or cycle around — which has preserved the medieval street plan inside almost perfectly. Unlike Florence (30 minutes away) or Pisa (20 minutes), Lucca does not feel overwhelmed by tourists. It has a genuine civic life: local Lucchese eat at the same restaurants as visitors, the markets are real, and the piazzas fill with residents rather than tour groups. The city rewards aimless walking. It was the birthplace of Giacomo Puccini and takes considerable civic pride in that fact. First-timers often feel they’ve discovered a secret; returning visitors plan their next trip before leaving.
Getting There
From Pisa: regional train, ~30 minutes, runs frequently, very cheap (around €4). Pisa Galileo Galilei airport is the closest international airport to Lucca — journey is airport bus/tram to Pisa Centrale then train to Lucca, total ~1 hour. From Florence: regional train, ~1h20–1h30 via Pistoia or Prato, several departures per hour, around €8–10. Some routes require a change at Pistoia or Prato — check Trenitalia. Florence is also a viable base for a Lucca day trip. From Rome: high-speed train to Florence (~1h30), then regional train to Lucca (~1h20) — total around 3 hours. Driving: Lucca is on the A11 motorway between Florence and the coast. There is no point driving into the walled city — park at Parcheggio Palatucci, Lucca (just outside the walls, well-signed) or other peripheral car parks and walk in.
Getting Around
Lucca’s historic centre is fully walkable — the entire old town fits within the walls and most sights are within 10 minutes of each other on foot. The city is flat. Cycling is the signature Lucca activity: bikes can be rented from multiple shops near the main gates (typically €3–5/hour or €12–15/day). The wall circuit takes 30–40 minutes at a leisurely pace and is a genuinely lovely experience. The streets inside the walls are also pleasantly cycleable. There is no useful public transport within the walls.
Neighbourhoods
Within the walls: the entire historic centre — where you will spend almost all your time. Piazza Napoleone, Lucca (the main civic square) and Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, Lucca are the social centres. The area around Via Fillungo is the main shopping street. Outside the walls: largely residential; the train station is a short walk south of the walls through Piazzale Verdi.
Top Attractions
- The Walls (Le Mura) — the defining experience. A 4.2km tree-lined promenade on top of the intact Renaissance ramparts. Free to walk; bikes rentable nearby. Best in the evening or early morning.
- Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, Lucca — an oval piazza built directly on the ruins of a Roman amphitheatre; the elliptical shape of the original arena is still clearly visible in the ring of medieval buildings. Surrounded by cafes and restaurants. One of the most atmospheric piazzas in Italy.
- Torre Guinigi, Lucca — 14th-century brick tower topped with a small garden of holm oak trees growing from the top. Climb the 230 steps for excellent views over the rooftops. Small entry fee (~€4).
- Torre delle Ore, Lucca — one of Lucca’s two surviving medieval towers and its working clock tower, on Via Fillungo. 207 steps up a wooden staircase (no lift) lead to the bell tower and panoramic views over the rooftops, church towers, and distant hills. One of only two towers left standing — Lucca once had many, built as symbols of wealth and power by rival families; most were demolished or cut down in the 16th century. The tower was contested for years by two rival families before the Republic of Lucca bought it in 1490. The clock dates to 1390 (originally a bell-only mechanism by goldsmith Lambruccio Cerlotti); the current movement was built by Geneva watchmaker Louis Simon in 1752 and is still in working order — one of the finest surviving examples in Europe. Three bells cast in 1754; the hours are still struck alla Romana (six strokes, repeated four times through the day). An iron weather vane inscribed Libertas and dated 1754 sits on the roof. Entry fee; online booking recommended on weekdays and required on weekends and holidays. Accepts the Visit Card Lucca cumulative ticket. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00, Sat–Sun 10:00–17:00 (winter hours; extended slightly in February).
- Duomo di San Martino, Lucca (Cathedral) — Romanesque facade with asymmetric colonnade (forced off-centre by the pre-existing bell tower). Houses the Volto Santo, a celebrated wooden crucifix of great local veneration, and the marble tomb of Ilaria del Carretto by Jacopo della Quercia (1406) — one of the finest examples of Italian Renaissance funerary sculpture. Free entry; small charge for the sacristy.
- Basilica di San Michele in Foro, Lucca — striking Pisan Romanesque church built on the site of the Roman forum. Elaborate white marble facade with layered loggias. Free entry.
- Casa Natale di Puccini, Lucca — the birthplace of Giacomo Puccini (1858–1924), composer of La Bohème, Tosca, and Madama Butterfly. Small museum; worth visiting if you have any interest in opera. Paid entry.
- Palazzo Pfanner, Lucca — 17th-century palazzo with one of Tuscany’s best Baroque gardens; accessible from both street level and the walls above. Paid entry.
Food & Drink
Lucca has a distinct local cuisine that differs from generic Tuscan food and is worth seeking out specifically.
- Tordelli lucchesi: Lucca’s signature pasta — large, half-moon pasta parcels filled with meat (pork, beef, herbs) and served with a meat ragù. Not to be confused with tortellini. Order this everywhere.
- Buccellato: a ring-shaped sweet bread made with anise and raisins, sold in rounds from bakeries across the city. The oldest and most famous bakery is Taddeucci, Piazza San Michele, Lucca (since 1881). Buy a slice or a whole ring.
- Farro soup: farro (emmer wheat) has been grown in the Garfagnana hills north of Lucca for millennia; farro soup (zuppa di farro) is on most trattoria menus.
- Lardo di Colonnata: cured fatback from nearby Carrara — extraordinarily good on bread; available in delicatessens.
- Lucchese olive oil: Lucca DOC olive oil is considered among Italy’s finest. Buy a small bottle from a local producer or shop.
- Wine: Colline Lucchesi DOC is the local wine appellation — not widely known nationally but worth trying locally.
Where to eat: The streets immediately around Piazza dell’Anfiteatro have good options but are tourist-facing. Venture one or two streets further for better value and more local clientele. Via degli Asili and the area around San Francesco church have several reliable trattorias. Avoid anywhere with photos on menus or a tout outside.
Da Pasquale (dapasquale-lucca.com — Corte Morovelli 4, Lucca) — a well-regarded osteria whose philosophy centres on conviviality: traditional Tuscan cuisine with a creative edge, quality-selected ingredients, and an extensive wine list (Brunello di Montalcino, Flaccianello della Pieve, Rosso di Montalcino). The owner, Pasquale, is known for going out of his way for guests — multiple reviewers single him out by name. Dishes span both land (terra) and sea (mare). Strong word-of-mouth; book ahead.
Markets: the weekly antiques market fills Piazza San Giusto, Lucca and surrounding streets on the third Saturday and Sunday of each month. A general market operates Wednesday and Saturday mornings near Piazzale Don Baroni, Lucca outside the walls.
Accommodation
Staying inside the walls is strongly recommended — the experience of the city in the early morning and evening (after day-trippers leave) is markedly different and better. Options range from B&Bs in medieval buildings to small boutique hotels. Mid-range budget inside the walls: €100–160/night. More basic options exist just outside the walls at lower cost. Book ahead for summer and the Lucca Comics & Games weekend.
As a day trip: Lucca works well as a day trip from Florence or Pisa, but an overnight stay transforms the experience significantly.
Day Trips
- Pisa (~30 min by train) — the Campo dei Miracoli (Leaning Tower, Baptistery, Cathedral) is worth half a day; the city itself is underrated beyond the tourist core.
- Florence (~1h20 by train) — the Uffizi, Accademia (David), Duomo complex, Oltrarno. Book Uffizi and Accademia well in advance.
- Barga and the Garfagnana — the medieval hill town of Barga and the Garfagnana valley to the north of Lucca are spectacular and almost tourist-free. Requires a car or local bus.
- Cinque Terre (~2h by train via La Spezia) — doable as a long day trip from Lucca but tiring; better as an overnight.
- Siena (~1h30–2h by train or bus) — the other great Tuscan hill city. Piazza del Campo is unmissable.
Practical Tips
- Lucca Comics & Games festival (late October/early November) is Europe’s largest comics and gaming festival — the entire city floods with cosplayers and visitors. Extraordinary atmosphere but accommodation books out months ahead and prices double.
- Summer Festival Lucca (July) — major outdoor music festival in Piazza Napoleone. Past headliners have been internationally significant. The piazza holds a large crowd; the city gets busy on concert nights.
- ZTL zones: the entire walled city centre is a ZTL (traffic restricted zone). Do not drive inside the walls unless your accommodation explicitly confirms you have a permit.
- Many churches and the Cathedral have enforced dress codes — shoulders and knees covered. A scarf or light layer is sufficient.
- The walls are lit at night and safe to walk on after dark — a genuinely lovely evening activity.